Exploring Amman and a church service with a difference

A great start to the day – i) muesli and fried eggs for breakfast, and ii) we dropped off the hire car for the last time – no more driving for me.

A 20 minute taxi ride into the city for 2 Dinars ($4) and we were at the Citadel – site of ancient Ramath-Ammon before it was a Roman, Byzantine and then Muslim fortress. It was in attacking this fortress that Joab was told by King David to pull back the rest of the troops so that Bathsheba’s husband Uriah the Hittite would be killed in battle (2 Sam 11). Thankfully the only aggression being shown there today was through car horns.

Compared to the other ruins we have seen there wasn’t much left, except for the two giant pillars of the temple of Hercules.

Making our way down the hill and crossing the road (for which needed all our skill and courage), we came to the theatre. Built into the side of a hill for 6000 spectators, it has all three tiers intact/restored.

waiting for the show to begin

The show begins ...

Just next door is the more intimate Odeon used for musical performances for crowds of around 500, and still occasionally used today.

Then it was souq time – the Arabic word for market. First the fruit and vegetable souq:

Then the hardware souq:

lowest prices are just the beginning - because one day the Bunnings empire will reach here too

Then Al-Afghani – a shop jam packed with souvenirs. Don't worry family members - we didn’t buy any of the things you can see in this photo.

Lunch as Hashem’s – the best falafel in Amman – or so the lonely Planet guide says – and Bethany, you would have loved them. No menus, but the waiter knew just what to do with foreigners – a mix of hummus, fallels, dip and vegetables. Including two drinks – 4.5 dinars ($9).

A taxi ride back to the Forrests, guiding the driver with some directions from Malcolm and from google maps. He had one question for us – ‘what problem do all you westerners have with the door?’ I found this a little confusing but as he drove along in the middle of the traffic he demonstrated by opening his door and slamming it hard. I gently apologised on behalf of all westerners (thinking that maybe we all feel stressed by the traffic and take it out on the door as we get out of his taxi – but I didn’t say this). As Isaac got out and shut the door, the driver yelled ‘See!’, so I apologised again and very, very gently closed the door.

Perhaps related to this tirade, the Jordanians are a very patriotic people. Flags are everywhere, including this huge one flapping over Amman. 

There are photos of the king everywhere, and not just the one standard look, on one poster there were at least 10 different scenes of the king in action. And not just the current king, sometimes all the kings since the country was established in 1921, plus the next in line. Clearly the king wants to reinforce his reign by putting his image in every government office, on arches built over the road and on billboards. But people choose to put him up in their shops as well. Australians don't seem to want to do this with the Queen and Prince Charles.

Tonight, something unusual which wasn't on the itinerary. One of the reasons for this trip was to stay with our friends the Forrests and to understand their ministry better; so in our planning we tried hard to arrange to be with them over the weekend, as their services are on Friday and Saturday. We couldn't manage that, but tomorrow we will go with them to a rehabilitation centre Charissa is involved with, and join in with a Bible Study Group in the evening. 

But on top of that when we arrived last night Malcolm invited us to something extra. The Archbishop of Canterbury, Justin Welby, happened to be in town and would be speaking at a special service at their church tomorrow night. Would we like to come? Of course, if I could borrow something appropriate to wear.

Who was there? A few from Malcolm and Charissa's expat congregation, at least 300 from the local Arabic speaking congregation, the British ambassador and his entourage, the Archbishop of Jerusalem, lots of clergy, and the Archbishop of Canterbury and those traveling with him. 

It was quite an experience! We arrived early so Malcolm could help get things ready, but soon the church was full, including 2 TV news cameras and several photographers. 

The service was in both Arabic and English. Being completely outnumbered it wasn't easy for us English speakers when we were speaking and singing together at the same time, but knowing the tunes helped. Despite the language difference (or perhaps because of it) joining in saying 'I believe in Jesus Christ, the Son of God', and singing 'Up from the grave he arose' and 'What a friend we have in Jesus' was quite moving. The Archbishop spoke clearly and warmly from the bible passages, pointing us to our hope and comfort in Jesus in the face of difficulty, referring to the refugees he had met with that day both in a camp near the Syrian border and in Amman.  

After the service there was a fancy reception in the Diocesan Grammar school next door, and apparently even one of the Jordanian princesses was present. 

A Jordanian band played background music and sang 'How Great thou Art' in Arabic. 

The speeches were long and fairly dull, except for the Archbishop who was short and to the point. The finger food was sumptuous, including falafel burgers! 

Most importantly we got to see a part of Malcolm and Charissa's ministry to the expat and consular community, and meet some members of their congregation. We also got to meet the minister of the Arabic speaking church with whom they work alongside. He said it was a shame I wasn't staying until Sunday - otherwise he could have asked me to preach. I quickly said my flight was already booked.