Tuesday, 27 June 2023

Huge Hike in Hokkaido

When the sun rises at 4:30am and you're camping you tend to wake up early. A morning walk along the beach to delight in the scenery and observe the neighbours' camping style. 

I retrieved our car from outside the gate and was welcomed by the very hospitable old men who run the campsite. Thanks to Google translate I managed to explain that we had arrived too late last night and we're already set up. Porridge and granola in our camping stove on the beach and we were ready to head out on what we thought was a half day hike. 

Mt Fuppishi
(the car boot selfie)
A steep ascent kept our pace to 1 km per hour. 
Stunning views along the way and ropes to help us until we reached the summit at 1102m. 
Beautiful sunshine above the clouds with gorgeous views of Lake Shitoksu below and Mt Eniwa above. 

Mt Tarumae
What looked only a short hike away turned out to be a long distance with numerous rope-assisted descents. 
We were running low on water and decided to stop for lunch - heating up our noodles with a minimum of water in the camping stove. 
Then we began the ascent to Mt Taramae. 
A class A active volcano which erupted several times in the 20th century. We were reassured by relaxed looking volcanic sensing equipment. The last eruption was in 1982. But we were delighted to find sulfur fumes escaping. 

Kaede-zawa moss gorge
I had read about this on the Hokkaido wilds website which repeatedly stressed that it wasn't an official walk and that it would take considerable hiking and topographic-map reading skill. We weren't perturbed, though we did have trouble finding the right track as we descended Mt Tarumae, feeling more than a little exhausted. Eventually we worked it out. The gorge was well worth it. 
Hamish was able to give me the evolutionary background of moss and we enjoyed the atmosphere.
Especially this giant matcha cube. 

Finally we completed the circuit and arrived back at the car after 7 and a half hours and 17 km. 
What did we want more than anything else? A cold drink. Sadly there were no vending machines at the end of the trail but we headed to the local onsen and found three machines. 
(end of hike selfie with Mt Fuppishi and Mt Tarumae in the background)

An exhausting day, but it was such a joy to conquer this challenge with Hamish and to experience God's beautiful creation together. Curry for dinner on the beach outside our tent. What better way to finish a great day. 

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