Early morning Kuching, waterfalls and Kampung Sting homestay

After a good night's sleep I woke at 5 and went for a slow run along the waterfront while I listened to the fascinating history of the various parts of Malaysia. 

The only person I knew who'd been to Kuching had told me how pretty the waterfront was at night, and of course it's just as true in the early morning. 

A whole new perspective on the places I'd seen yesterday, plus the Malay area downriver. At the new mosque I was struck by the grave markers consisting of no more than a short wooden stump, and intrigued by the numbered positions on the steps.

Plus a great mural.

Back for a shower and breakfast before our hire car was dropped off. 

Driving - even from the centre of the city - was easy enough. Thank you to the Rajahs for driving on the left. The only challenge was switching the music in the car from the radio to Bluetooth. We stopped to buy a towel because Hamish hadn't brought one - after all those hours we spent reading the Hitch Hiker's Guide to the Galaxy! - and then drove on to our first stop - Annah Rais Biduyn longhouse. For centuries indigenous communities lived in a single long building with partitions between families, usually beside a river. Today most have transitioned to individual dwellings but some longhouses remain. Annah Rais is the most famous in Sarawak for welcoming day visitors and overnighters. Put off by the heavy price tag of $300+AUD per person for lodging, meals and activities, we were just here for a visit. The first impression was a massive coke advertisement on the wall, followed up by a glass of homemade rice wine. To be honest the experience was underwhelming, perhaps because most people were out at work, but the genuine Burak or skull house was sobering. 

Then two plates of nasi goreng and two coffees for $8 at a roadside cafe, before arriving at Bengdoh dam for today's main adventure.  

Bengdoh Dam was built 11 years ago, causing the relocation of several indigenous communities, some of whom moved to a new settlement on the mountain at Kampong Sting. As a result local and international visitors can now get a 20-minute boat ride to hike to a series of spectacular waterfalls for a day trip or add on an overnight homestay. I had found Sym through Gemini AI and booked through WhatsApp, and then gradually discovered his family business. His sister-in-law Mona (front right) was our guide for the hike, her husband (next to her) was the boat driver, and his sister and brother in law (front left) were our overnight hosts. 

We loved getting to know Mona, especially as she taught Hamish some words in Malay and Biduyn, and she showed us different plants and created single-note musical instruments from different leaves. 

Biduyn people used this leaf to frighten their enemies. How? By striking it hard against their hand to mimic the sound of a blowpipe weapon. 

Mona also joyfully showed us how to use the small river stones to make paint. 

She also casually showed us her Bible study preparation questions which had just come through on WhatsApp. Wednesday night Bible study at her Anglican church is 200 people with the minister teaching and translation into biduyn and malay. We had a delightful chat about her family becoming Christian over 20 years ago. 

The bamboo bridges were fantastic 

and the waterfalls were glorious. The spray coming off the top waterfall was astounding.

 Finally we took a dip before heading back down to the jetty. 

A short ride to another jetty, followed by a steep walk up to our homestay. A comparatively large house specially built for homestay of up to 30 people with a mixing desk and speakers to match. 

Looking out at the sunset over the dam was magnificent. 

We felt a world away, apart from the World Cup playing on the tv in the house nearby. 

We were treated to a feast of 'bamboo chicken' (chicken cooked in a large bamboo pole), fish, vegetables and rice while we got to know our hosts. I would have to hear about the impact of the dam on their communities but the language challenges didn't let us get that far. 

What a fantastic day! All I had hoped it would be. I laid down to rest after dinner and promptly fell asleep!

Kuching museums and cuisine

'How was your flight?' Which means 'How sick did you get this time?'

Not sick at all!

I didn't sleep well on the overnight from Sydney to Singapore, but I simply loved the morning flight from Singapore to Kuching. A window seat, a full moon, a sunrise, and amazing cloud formations. Unfortunately the photos just don't do it justice.

Then we flew over the mountainous terrain and rivers of Sarawak.

My grab driver was a young Chinese man whose family came here during the Rajah's reign (museum number 1) and who spoke 4 or 5 languages. 

Then what a joy to meet up with Hamish, have breakfast and a shower and start our adventure. 

Walking along the waterfront we talked travel, history, culture and politics, and admired the skill of the boatmen clearing the river. 

Museum number 1 - The Brooke Gallery in Fort Marguerite. 

James Brooke was a rich English adventurer who bought an old Navy battleship in the 1840s and forced the Sultan of Brunei to make him Rajah of Sarawak. He and two of his descendants then managed to keep enough of the indigenous tribes on their side rule over, or rule for the benefit of, the indigenous and Chinese population (depending on your perspective) for over 100 years. Finally the third White Rajah handed it to the British Empire in 1946. With plenty of memorabilia from the Brooke family, the story was told from a very rosy perspective, creating plenty of conversation for Hamish and me. Having never heard of the White Rajahs until a month ago and then spending many hours listening to podcasts about them, I really enjoyed the museum. 

(James Brooke's ceremonial sword)

A quick run through a downpour and we had a delicious lunch at the 'English Tea House' on the river. The food was anything but English! 

Museum number 2 - the Borneo Cultures Museum

I had heard that this new museum was world class and they were not wrong! Fantastic exhibits about the different settings (coastal, rainforests and highlands) and cultures of the various indigenous groups of Sarawak, plus a journey through time beginning with a skull over 35,000 years old. 

Some highlights:

A replica headhunters ceremonial house (a Baruk) look closely!

A Book of Common Prayer translated into the local language in 1857 with a dedication from the Anglican bishop. It was found in Melbourne years later and donated to the museum.

A monument to the Australian paratroopers dropped behind Japanese lines and aided by the Kelabit people who had been influenced and educated by Australian missionaries from the 1920s. (Btw the Australian campaign in Borneo in 1945 was bigger than Gallipoli (75000 troops) - and I had never heard of it till a month ago!)

And a low light - the man selling the tickets to the museum looked at Hamish and asked him if he was a student. Then he looked at me and asked how old I was. I thanked him for asking, assuming he thought I might be a student as well, but Hamish helped me to realise that he was checking whether I should be offered the seniors' rate!

How to round off a great first day? After some down time, we enjoyed a delicious indigenous cuisine-inspired meal at Lepau Restaurant - featured on a tv show about Sarawak cuisine which Danielle and I watched and recommended by Hamish's Grab (uber) driver. 

Cant wait for day 2!

On our way to Sarawak

After some sad farewells to Elijah and Danielle, I'm on my way to Singapore, then to Kuching in  Sarawak. Meanwhile, Hamish is flying from Ho Chi Minh City to Kuala Lumpur, then hopefully another flight to Kuching. Can't wait to see him, and can't wait to try some delicious food and experience indigenous cultures together, not to mention  orangutans, frogs, caves and rainforests! So thankful! 

Some of the first wildlife of the trip at Singapore airport (check out the location in the last photo):

Good Morning Vietnam and tạm biệt

My final early morning run into town and back. 

Like yesterday, I couldnt get through one of the back streets because it was flooded. Being so close and at the same level as the tidal river mouth, this seems to be a daily occurrence. 

Then I wanted to show Elijah the fresh food market I discovered yesterday. 

Back for our last delicious breakfast, with a new delicacy - mini Vietnamese omelettes. 

A final swim in the crystal clear ocean and our last grab to the airport. Our driver was originally from the Mekong Delta before moving here for work. He taught himself English just by lisrening and interacting with the diners at the restaurant where he worked and now as a driver. As someone who's studied 3 different languages for at least 3 years and retained virtually nothing, I think that's impressive. 

Inside the modern airport Elijah's face lit up. The culinary delight he had been longing for throughout his time in Vietnam but which seemed to be completely absent 

a Whopper! Arriving back at Saigon airport with time to spare he discovered another Burger King - and another whopper!

Sadly, with flights to stay well on, I had to hold myself back!

Instead I sought out one more taste of Saigon with a walk to a nearby park. I found it but ... you know you're in Saigon when you aren't brave enough to cross the road to get there!

One unexpected highlight at when our plane came to a stop at Saigon airport - these Vietnam airforce fighter jets, complete with bombs. Is this normal here?

Our flight home was very smooth and more than half empty - so we both got to lie down. No need for the sick bags this time. I was even able to look out the window as we passed over Sydney before turning around over the ocean to land.

What struck us as we walked out of the airport? The lack of humidity, people and scooters, and that the cars kept to their lanes. 

I loved being in such a different part of the world and I loved being there with Elijah. It's brought back memories of our other trips as a family, and my individual trips with Isaac, Bethany and Hamish. So many past blessings!

But what a blessing to return home to such a prosperous and well ordered country and to my wonderful wife. Thank you Father!