Kuching museums and cuisine

'How was your flight?' Which means 'How sick did you get this time?'

Not sick at all!

I didn't sleep well on the overnight from Sydney to Singapore, but I simply loved the morning flight from Singapore to Kuching. A window seat, a full moon, a sunrise, and amazing cloud formations. Unfortunately the photos just don't do it justice.

Then we flew over the mountainous terrain and rivers of Sarawak.

My grab driver was a young Chinese man whose family came here during the Rajah's reign (museum number 1) and who spoke 4 or 5 languages. 

Then what a joy to meet up with Hamish, have breakfast and a shower and start our adventure. 

Walking along the waterfront we talked travel, history, culture and politics, and admired the skill of the boatmen clearing the river. 

Museum number 1 - The Brooke Gallery in Fort Marguerite. 

James Brooke was a rich English adventurer who bought an old Navy battleship in the 1840s and forced the Sultan of Brunei to make him Rajah of Sarawak. He and two of his descendants then managed to keep enough of the indigenous tribes on their side rule over, or rule for the benefit of, the indigenous and Chinese population (depending on your perspective) for over 100 years. Finally the third White Rajah handed it to the British Empire in 1946. With plenty of memorabilia from the Brooke family, the story was told from a very rosy perspective, creating plenty of conversation for Hamish and me. Having never heard of the White Rajahs until a month ago and then spending many hours listening to podcasts about them, I really enjoyed the museum. 

(James Brooke's ceremonial sword)

A quick run through a downpour and we had a delicious lunch at the 'English Tea House' on the river. The food was anything but English! 

Museum number 2 - the Borneo Cultures Museum

I had heard that this new museum was world class and they were not wrong! Fantastic exhibits about the different settings (coastal, rainforests and highlands) and cultures of the various indigenous groups of Sarawak, plus a journey through time beginning with a skull over 35,000 years old. 

Some highlights:

A replica headhunters ceremonial house (a Baruk) look closely!

A Book of Common Prayer translated into the local language in 1857 with a dedication from the Anglican bishop. It was found in Melbourne years later and donated to the museum.

A monument to the Australian paratroopers dropped behind Japanese lines and aided by the Kelabit people who had been influenced and educated by Australian missionaries from the 1920s. (Btw the Australian campaign in Borneo in 1945 was bigger than Gallipoli (75000 troops) - and I had never heard of it till a month ago!)

And a low light - the man selling the tickets to the museum looked at Hamish and asked him if he was a student. Then he looked at me and asked how old I was. I thanked him for asking, assuming he thought I might be a student as well, but Hamish helped me to realise that he was checking whether I should be offered the seniors' rate!

How to round off a great first day? After some down time, we enjoyed a delicious indigenous cuisine-inspired meal at Lepau Restaurant - featured on a tv show about Sarawak cuisine which Danielle and I watched and recommended by Hamish's Grab (uber) driver. 

Cant wait for day 2!

On our way to Sarawak

After some sad farewells to Elijah and Danielle, I'm on my way to Singapore, then to Kuching in  Sarawak. Meanwhile, Hamish is flying from Ho Chi Minh City to Kuala Lumpur, then hopefully another flight to Kuching. Can't wait to see him, and can't wait to try some delicious food and experience indigenous cultures together, not to mention  orangutans, frogs, caves and rainforests! So thankful! 

Some of the first wildlife of the trip at Singapore airport (check out the location in the last photo):

Good Morning Vietnam and tạm biệt

My final early morning run into town and back. 

Like yesterday, I couldnt get through one of the back streets because it was flooded. Being so close and at the same level as the tidal river mouth, this seems to be a daily occurrence. 

Then I wanted to show Elijah the fresh food market I discovered yesterday. 

Back for our last delicious breakfast, with a new delicacy - mini Vietnamese omelettes. 

A final swim in the crystal clear ocean and our last grab to the airport. Our driver was originally from the Mekong Delta before moving here for work. He taught himself English just by lisrening and interacting with the diners at the restaurant where he worked and now as a driver. As someone who's studied 3 different languages for at least 3 years and retained virtually nothing, I think that's impressive. 

Inside the modern airport Elijah's face lit up. The culinary delight he had been longing for throughout his time in Vietnam but which seemed to be completely absent 

a Whopper! Arriving back at Saigon airport with time to spare he discovered another Burger King - and another whopper!

Sadly, with flights to stay well on, I had to hold myself back!

Instead I sought out one more taste of Saigon with a walk to a nearby park. I found it but ... you know you're in Saigon when you aren't brave enough to cross the road to get there!

One unexpected highlight at when our plane came to a stop at Saigon airport - these Vietnam airforce fighter jets, complete with bombs. Is this normal here?

Our flight home was very smooth and more than half empty - so we both got to lie down. No need for the sick bags this time. I was even able to look out the window as we passed over Sydney before turning around over the ocean to land.

What struck us as we walked out of the airport? The lack of humidity, people and scooters, and that the cars kept to their lanes. 

I loved being in such a different part of the world and I loved being there with Elijah. It's brought back memories of our other trips as a family, and my individual trips with Isaac, Bethany and Hamish. So many past blessings!

But what a blessing to return home to such a prosperous and well ordered country and to my wonderful wife. Thank you Father!